The Amalfi Coast doesn’t just look like a postcard—it feels like one. Pastel-colored buildings tumble down cliffsides, lemon groves perfume the air, and every turn in the road reveals another breathtaking view. But this stretch of coast isn’t a secret anymore, so here’s how to experience it smartly.
Positano: Vertical Beauty & Sunset Drinks
Positano is impossibly picturesque. The town is built almost vertically—colorful houses cascade down the hillside in a way that seems to defy physics. There’s one main beach (Spiaggia Grande), and it’s crowded in summer, but the smaller pebble shore around the bend is quieter.
The real Positano experience happens in the evening. Claim a spot at one of the waterfront bars (Positano Wine Bar is solid) with a limoncello cocktail and watch the sun sink toward the Tyrrhenian Sea. This moment—the golden light, the clink of glasses, the scent of lemon and salt—is why people come here.
Stay at least one night in Positano if your budget allows. Hotels are pricey, but guesthouses and B&Bs are more reasonable. Arrive early or late in the day to secure parking in the main lot.
Amalfi Town: Where Lemons Grow & Crafts Flourish
The town of Amalfi is less vertical and more walkable than Positano. The cathedral is stunning (go inside—the bronze doors are extraordinary), and the main piazza has a genuine local feel alongside the tourists.
This is where you understand why the coast is called the Amalfi Coast. Lemon trees blanket the hillsides above town. The fragrance is intoxicating. Try sfusato amalfitano lemons—they’re the largest, juiciest lemons you’ll ever taste. Grab one from a vendor and enjoy it like an orange.
Shop for ceramics and limoncello here—prices are better than in Positano, and you’re supporting actual makers. Limonoro is a small limoncello producer where you can taste before buying.
Ravello: Art, Culture & Views from Above
Ravello sits 1,000 meters above the coast and feels like a different world. Instead of beach crowds, you get art galleries, concerts, and the kind of sophisticated calm that attracted artists and intellectuals for centuries.
The Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone are worth visiting for their architecture and gardens, but honestly, they’re worth visiting for the terraces. The view of the coastline from these villas is so stunning it borders on unreal. Arrive in late afternoon when the crowds thin and the light softens.
Spend an evening in Ravello for dinner. The restaurants here are excellent and less chaotic than beachfront spots. Walk through the empty streets after dark—the terraced views lit by stars are magical.
The Path of the Gods: Hike with a View
The Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods) is a 7.5km hiking trail that connects Praiano and Positano along the clifftops. The views are literally unmatched—the Amalfi Coast drops away on one side, Mediterranean blue stretches endlessly on the other.
The hike takes about 3 hours at a normal pace. Start early (7 AM) to beat crowds and heat. Bring water, sunscreen, and wear good hiking shoes. The trail is well-marked but narrow in places. Stunning photo opportunities every 30 seconds.
Beaches & Beach Clubs
The Amalfi Coast has fewer beaches than you’d expect—much of it is cliff and rock. But where beaches exist, they’re gem-like.
- Spiaggia Grande (Positano): The main beach, crowded, beautiful, great for people-watching
- Praiano Beach: Smaller and less hectic than Positano, excellent seafood restaurants above the sand
- Furore Fjord: A hidden emerald-colored inlet accessible by narrow path or boat, almost secret-feeling
- Lido delle Sirene: Beach club with chairs, umbrellas, and fresh seafood; very Italian experience
Beach clubs charge €15-25 to use loungers and umbrellas but include restaurant access. Money well spent to actually relax on the beach without fighting for sand.
Food: Seafood, Pasta & Limoncello Everything
This coast is famous for scialatielli ai frutti di mare—hand-rolled pasta with mixed seafood. It’s a revelation. The pasta is delicate, the seafood is fresh-caught that morning, and the sauce is minimal—usually just white wine and olive oil to let the ingredients shine.
- Try delizia al limone (lemon heaven cake) for dessert—it’s a light sponge with lemon curd and whipped cream
- Eat raw seafood at bacari (local wine bars) in Amalfi town
- Sample mozzarella di bufala from the Campania region—it’s richer and creamier than cow’s milk mozzarella
- Drink limoncello straight, in cocktails, or over gelato (honestly, any preparation works)
- Order spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams) at waterfront restaurants
Getting Around the Coast
The coastal road (SS163) is thrilling if you enjoy switchbacks and narrow passages with views of death-drop cliffs on one side. Buses operate on this route (SITA buses, €3-5 per trip) and are actually kind of fun—drivers navigate hairpin turns with casual confidence while tourists gasp.
Ferries connect Positano, Amalfi, and Salerno in summer (May-September). They’re slower than driving but infinitely less stressful and beautiful. A ferry from Positano to Amalfi costs about €5-8 and takes 30 minutes.
Rent a scooter if you’re comfortable—it’s a gorgeous ride. Otherwise, stick with buses or ferries. Don’t rent a car unless you’re very confident navigating narrow, clifftop roads.
Capri Day Trip
Capri is a short ferry ride from Positano or Amalfi (45 minutes to 1 hour). It’s expensive, crowded, and completely worth it. The Blue Grotto is touristy but genuinely stunning. Explore Capri town, hike to secluded viewpoints, or splurge on a boat tour around the island. Budget €50-80 for the ferry and boat tours.
Best Season to Visit
April-May and September-October are ideal—warm weather, manageable crowds, and lower prices than peak summer. July-August is absolutely packed, expensive, and unbearably hot. Winter is quieter but some restaurants and hotels close. Spring and fall feel like the Amalfi Coast was meant to be experienced.
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