Lake Como is the place where wealthy Milaneses escape for weekends. It’s where Hollywood royalty buys villas. It’s where Mark Twain and other Romantic poets found inspiration. And it’s where you’ll understand why humans keep returning to places of profound beauty.
Surrounded by the Alps, studded with medieval villages, and ringed by some of Italy’s most spectacular villas, Lake Como offers the perfect counterpoint to Italy’s crowded city centers. This is where you slow down.
The Lay of the Land: Geography & Getting There
Lake Como is shaped like an upside-down Y, with three branches reaching into the Alpine valleys. The lake stretches roughly 50 kilometers north to south, and the landscape transforms depending on which shore you’re on. The western shore (Como side) tends toward the built-up. The eastern shore (Lecco side) is wilder and more mountainous. The central branch splits the difference.
Getting there from Milan is simple—trains run regularly and take 90 minutes to Como. Rent a car at the lake if you want flexibility, but the ferry system is so efficient and scenic that many travelers skip cars entirely.
Bellagio: The Classic Destination
Bellagio sits at the junction of the lake’s three branches and is Lake Como’s most famous village. For good reason. The waterfront piazza has that perfect Italian mix of elegance and ease. Pastel buildings face the water. Restaurants spill onto the lakeside. Ferries arrive and depart with Alpine romance.
Bellagio isn’t undiscovered, but it handles tourism well. The village has depth beyond the obvious piazza—winding alleys climb the hillside, lined with small galleries, vintage shops, and neighborhood restaurants where locals eat away from the tourist gaze.
Stay overnight if possible. After the day-trippers depart at 5 PM, Bellagio becomes a village again, not just a postcard.
Varenna: The Secret Gem
Varenna, on the eastern shore, offers Bellagio’s romance with fewer crowds. It’s smaller, quieter, and equally beautiful—a cascade of pastel buildings dropping to a tiny waterfront, with a castle perched on the hill above and dramatic mountains as a backdrop.
Varenna feels like it belongs to the people who live there, not to tourists. The restaurants are family-run. The streets are narrow and winding. The ferry dock feels like the center of a living village, not a tourist attraction.
Stay here instead of Bellagio if you want authenticity with your views.
Menaggio: Hiking & Village Life
Menaggio, on the western shore, is less picturesque than Bellagio or Varenna but more functional and local. It’s the hub for hiking in the area, and it’s where you’ll find more affordable accommodations and restaurants away from tourist inflation.
The Greenway del Lago begins here—a spectacular walking path that hugs the lake’s shoreline for about 13 kilometers, connecting Menaggio to Bellagio. It takes roughly 4 hours and is one of Northern Italy’s finest walks, offering views that justify every step.
The Villas: Renaissance Splendor
Lake Como’s hillsides are studded with villas—the summer retreats of Milan’s wealthy since the Renaissance. Two stand out:
Villa del Balbianello (Lenno): This 18th-century villa sits on a promontory jutting into the lake, with geometric gardens and a 90-meter pergola. The setting is so dramatic it’s been featured in films (James Bond, Star Wars, etc.). It’s accessible by boat or hiking trail.
Villa Carlotta (Tremezzo): A neoclassical mansion with 14 hectares of botanical gardens. Inside, you’ll find sculptures, paintings, and period furniture. The lake views from the gardens are sublime. This one is easier to visit—just hop off the ferry.
The Ferry System: Getting Around Like a Local
Ferries connect Como’s villages and are the primary transport. The system is efficient, affordable, and genuinely scenic. Watching the mountains rise as you cross the lake never gets old. Multiple ferry types exist (fast hydrofoil, slower car ferries), so you can choose your pace.
A multi-day pass makes sense if you’re hopping between villages. Locals use ferries daily—you’re not a tourist when you’re standing on the deck with a coffee and a newspaper.
Hiking & The Greenway
Lake Como is surrounded by Alpine valleys with exceptional hiking. The Greenway del Lago is the most accessible and famous walk, but dozens of other trails radiate from mountain villages. Hiking usually means ascending from lakeside villages into forest, with views expanding the higher you climb.
- Greenway del Lago: 13 km, moderate difficulty, connects Menaggio to Bellagio along the shore
- Rifugio hikes: Various trails lead to mountain shelters (rifugios) where you can eat and rest
- High-altitude alpine walks: For experienced hikers, trails above treeline offer dramatic valley views
Spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) are ideal for hiking—weather is stable and the light is perfect.
The Food Scene: Lacustrine & Alpine
Lake Como’s cuisine blends mountain traditions with lake fish. Missoltini (dried fish) is a local specialty. Agnolotti filled with meat and served with butter and sage is common. Fresh whitefish and trout appear on every menu.
- Seek out restaurants serving fresh lake fish simply prepared
- Try polenta—it appears everywhere, often topped with mushrooms or fish
- Sample local cheeses from Alpine dairies in nearby valleys
Meals should be leisurely. Dinner doesn’t start until 8 PM, and courses arrive slowly. This is by design—you’re supposed to linger.
George Clooney & Lakeside Glamour
George Clooney bought a villa here, which launched a thousand “where Clooney eats” articles. The reality: he’s rarely in town, and his villa isn’t visible from public spaces. Don’t visit Lake Como expecting celebrity spotting. Visit because the landscape genuinely merits a trip to the most romantic corner of the Alps.
Best Season & What to Expect
Summer (June-August): Warm, crowded, expensive. Ferries bustle with tourists. Mountains provide cool retreat from Italian heat.
Spring (April-May) & Fall (September-October): Ideal. Mild weather, fewer crowds, hiking is excellent, colors are beautiful, prices are reasonable.
Winter (November-March): Quiet and cool. Many small hotels and restaurants close. The mountains often have snow—creating postcard-perfect scenery. It’s the locals’ season.
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