Milan is often overlooked in favor of Rome, Florence, and Venice. That’s a mistake. Italy’s fashion capital offers world-class art, stunning architecture, and a vibrancy that rival cities can’t match. Pair three days in Milan with three days at Lake Como—just 90 minutes away by train—and you’ve discovered an underrated Italian combination.
Days 1-3: Milan
Day 1: Arrival & Duomo Milan’s Duomo is one of Europe’s most ornate Gothic cathedrals: thousands of stone spires pierce the sky, and the facade glitters with detail. Arrive early (9 AM) when light is clean and crowds are minimal. Climb to the roof terraces—the views stretch to the Alps on clear days. The interior is less impressive than the exterior but worth 30 minutes.
Spend the afternoon in the Navigli district, Milan’s coolest neighborhood. These peaceful canals, lined with restaurants and galleries, were built in the medieval period to transport goods through the city. Today they’re lined with young professionals on aperitivos. Walk, sit, and absorb the Milan that locals actually inhabit.
Day 2: Last Supper & Brera Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper (Il Cenacolo) hangs in the refectory of the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie. This painting is genuinely life-changing—even seeing it’s deteriorated state (extensive restoration happened in 1999), the composition and emotion are staggering. You must book tickets weeks in advance on the museum website; walk-ups rarely find availability.
Afterward, visit the Sforza Castle, Milan’s imposing medieval fortress with an excellent art collection. The castle grounds are peaceful and green—a rare green space in the city. Spend time wandering the courtyards.
In the afternoon, explore the Brera neighborhood. This artsy district north of the Duomo is Milan’s most charming—narrow streets, independent galleries, small design shops, and authentic restaurants. The Pinacoteca di Brera art museum is world-class, housed in an 18th-century palace. The courtyard café is perfect for afternoon espresso.
Day 3: Shopping & Nightlife The Quadrilatero d’Oro (Golden Rectangle) is Milan’s luxury fashion district. Even if you’re not buying, walking streets lined with flagship stores from every luxury brand is surreal. Via Monte Napoleone, Via della Spiga, and Via Sant’Andrea are the main arteries.
Lunch at a casual pizzeria in the neighborhood—Milan makes excellent pizza despite being interior. In the afternoon, visit the City Life district, a modern mixed-use development that’s architecturally exciting. Zaha Hadid designed one of the major buildings; it’s worth seeing contemporary Milan.
For evening, join Milan’s famous aperitivo scene. Bars charge €10-15 for a cocktail and unlimited access to snacks and appetizers. This is how Milanesi spend early evenings before dinner. Popular spots are near Corso Como in the northeast or around the Navigli in the south.
The Milan-Como Train
Frequent trains connect Milan to Como (1 hour) and Varenna (1.5 hours). Book tickets on Trenitalia or Italo apps. The 1 PM or 2 PM departure on day three gets you to Como by evening. Varenna is a more atmospheric village but requires changing trains; Como is the main hub with the most direct connections.
Days 4-6: Lake Como
Day 4: Bellagio & The Ferry System The lake is best explored via ferries—cars are optional. Bellagio sits at the lake’s heart where three valleys converge, making it the perfect base. From Como town, take the ferry (30-45 minutes depending on route) to Bellagio. The ferry journey itself is spectacular—you’re surrounded by steep mountain walls, villas clinging to cliffs, and Alpine reflections in the water.
Bellagio is picture-perfect: steep main streets lined with boutiques and restaurants, a waterfront promenade, and easy ferry access to everywhere else. Walk uphill from the waterfront and you’ll discover quiet neighborhoods, small piazzas, and views that justify Bellagio’s fame.
Visit Villa Serbelloni and its terraced gardens—the views across the lake are staggering. For something less touristy, Villa Carlotta is less crowded, with excellent art and botanical gardens. End the day at sunset on the waterfront with a glass of local wine and a dinner reservation secured.
Day 5: Varenna & Hiking Ferries connect Bellagio to Varenna (15 minutes) on the eastern shore. Varenna is smaller, quieter, and arguably more beautiful. The waterfront is even more postcard-perfect—pastel buildings, tiny harbor, and mountainsides rising steeply. Explore the village’s steep streets, visit the medieval castle ruins above town, and swim in the lake from the waterfront beach (bring your own towel).
From Varenna, excellent hiking trails lead into the mountains. A popular route climbs to Rifugio Menaggio with Alpine views over the entire lake—2 hours up, 1.5 hours down. Less ambitious hikers can walk to nearby Fiumelatte, a small riverside village.
Lunch in Varenna with fresh lake fish (perch is excellent here) overlooking the water. In afternoon, take the ferry to Villa Balbianello’s private docks and explore this celebrated villa’s art collection, gardens, and waterfront position. The villa was featured in Casino Royale—the views are Hollywood-worthy.
Day 6: Departure Day Adventures Depending on your departure time, squeeze in last-minute activities. A sunrise ferry circuit visiting Como and Bellagio offers magical morning light. Or rent a car and drive the scenic Menaggio-Lugano road, stopping at viewpoints overlooking the lake. If departing from Milan, an early ferry back to Como and an afternoon train is typical.
Ferry System Logistics
Ferries are frequent (every 30-60 minutes depending on route) and cost €5-12 depending on distance. Buy single tickets at docks or get a multi-day pass (around €25 for 3 days unlimited). Ferries are scenic and efficient—genuinely better than driving.
The system is color-coded: express ferries (fast, fewer stops), local ferries (slow, many stops), and car ferries. For visiting Bellagio and Varenna, take local ferries to enjoy the scenery.
Where to Stay
Bellagio is touristy but gorgeous. Budget €80-120 for guest houses, €150-250 for mid-range hotels. Varenna is cheaper and quieter at similar quality levels. Menaggio on the western shore is budget-friendly if you don’t mind a longer ferry commute.
Hidden Gems
Most tourists stick to Bellagio and Varenna. Explore Tremezzo (west shore, peaceful), Lierna (east shore, fishing village), or Lecco (southern lakeshore, real Italian town). These villages are charming without crowds.
The scenic Madonna del Ghisallo shrine sits at a mountain pass between Como and the lake—views span across three valleys. It’s a steep climb but worth it.
Restaurant Tips
- Lake fish is the star: perch (persico), trout (trota), pike (luccio)
- Ask for the day’s special—it’ll be fresh local fish
- Pizzoccheri (buckwheat pasta with vegetables) is a traditional Como dish
- Waterfront restaurants are tourist traps; seek street-back options
- Lunches are significantly cheaper than dinners
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